Thursday 5 February 2026
Up the mountain to Wat Phra That Doi Suthep

There is a very important temple, Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, on a mountain west of Chiang Mai. This temple is very important to the Thai people, and is a Royal Temple of the Second Class, of which there are only six in Thailand. Of the 40,000 active Buddhist temples in Thailand, less than 300 are listed as “Royal Temples” of the first, second, or third class. In the Thai language “Doi” means “mountain” so today, Esther and I are going up Doi Suthep to see one of the temples on her list of things to see, Wat Phra That Doi Suthep.

I have a strength training session at the gym with my trainer late in the morning, so we cannot make this excursion until afternoon. Esther also expressed interest in hiking the Monks Trail to Wat Phalad, also on Doi Suthep. Because we would be going in the afternoon, and the temperature will be over 32 C (90 F), I proposed that we hire a driver to take us up the mountain to Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, wait while we visited the temple, then take us to Wat Phalad, and after exploring the temple grounds, we would walk down the Monks Trail and get a separate ride into Chiang Mai. That became our plan.

Wat Phra That Doi Suthep

I have written about the story and significance of this temple many times over the years in this blog. In summary, a significant relic was found, thought to be that from the Buddha. Half of the relic was placed in the newly build chedi at Wat Suan Dok and the other half placed on the back of a royal elephant. The King said that wherever the elephant stopped a temple would be built and the relic placed into the chedi. The elephant, being followed by the King and his army on horseback, climbed up the mountain. At what is now Wat Phalad, it is said that the elephant stopped, or maybe slipped and fell while crossing the creek. That was the incentive later to build Wat Phalad at that spot. The elephant continued up almost to the top of the mountain, sat down, trumped three times and died. That is where Wat Phra That Doi Suthep was built.

We got to the temple. Off to the side and seldom visited by many is this very large gong. Most of the large gongs seen at temples are about 2 meters in diameter (6 feet 6 inches). This one is at least 4 meters, maybe closer to 5 meters. I wanted to strike it, but there was no mallet there. (The mallets used to strike these gongs have a soft head, so while causing the gong to vibrate they do not damage it.) The Thai writing says, “this was built as a sacred offering to the Buddha at Phra That Doi Suthep” and the date 2009.

Phra Mae Thorani

Phra Mae Thorani, known as the Mother Earth in Thai Buddhism, is a very revered figure symbolizing fertility, protection, and the witnessing of good deeds. She is most known as protecting the Buddha as he was meditating under the Bhodi Tree. It is said that Mara (the demon) and his army tried to distract the Buddha, and the Buddha called upon Phra Mae Thorani. In response, Phra Mae Thorani emerged from the earth, wrung water from her long hair, and flooded Mara’s army, allowing the Buddha to return to his meditation and attain enlightenment.

There are statued of Phra Mae Thorani at many temples in Thailand. Here at Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, there are two, both fairly large. The first is just to the right of the start of the famous Naga Stairway. The second is at the top outside the square where the large gold chedi is located. Both a little different, and both very nice.

Walking around the top outside the chedi enclosure, I always love the dancing thewada on these doors. The doors are always closed, so I have no knowledge of where they go.

And across from the dancing thewada doors, this bougainvilla is getting bigger and bigger. Quite striking.

Continuing around the outside, we came to the large standing Buddha. This is said to have been carved from one large teak log. It is large, over 4 meters high.

On either side of the standing Buddha are these two seated Buddha images. The left one appears to be made of marble. I am not sure what was used for the right one.

And then there are the moms guarding the entrance to the ho trai (library of Buddhist and temple documents). I love these, and have taken many photographs of them.

Then we went into the inner square and saw the chedi. There are many people here tody (like every day). The tradition is to walk around the inner path three times reciting a mantra. There were many people doing that.

All around the chedi and outside the walkway are various small viharn (worship halls), all different in their decoration. I particularly like this one with the large elephant tusks.

Further around is this marble Buddha image. I am pretty sure in recent years this statue was on a pallet almost off in a corner, probably waiting to be officially installed.

We left Wat Phra That Doi Suthep and our driver dropped us at the road entrance to Wat Phalad.

Next: Doi Suthep Part 2 Wat Phalad