Move Day 1 – Wat Phan Tao

2025 Thailand

Saturday 25 January 2025
Moving from The 3-Sis to See You Soon

For the 12 winters I visited Chiang Mai, I stayed at The 3-Sis, a guesthouse and restaurant in the middle of the old city. The 3-Sis is so named because it is owned by three sisters and their parents. I know all of the family. Poppy manages The 3-Sis. About 6 or 7 years ago, Ice, one of the sisters, and her husband Ball opened a restaurant and smaller guesthouse about 100 meters down Phrapokklao Road called See You Soon. When I was making my reservation with Poppy for an upcoming winter, she asked if I would consider staying part of the time at See You Soon, and she arranged that I would stay about 3/4 of my time at 3-Sis and 1/4 of my time at See You Soon. That has been the model ever since. Today I check out from The 3-Sis at noon and can check in to See You Soon at 3 PM. For three hours I have no home in Chiang Mai.

Wat Phan Tao

During the three hours while I have no “home” in Chiang Mai, I have an hour-long chi nei tsang session with Khun Ohm at 1 PM. I started a slow walk from The 3-Sis to Ohm’s place up by Sri Phum Corner. My first stop was at Wat Phan Tao, right next to the famous Wat Chedi Luang.

This temple was originally founded in the 14th century and was principally used as the living quarters for the monks of Wat Chedi Luang next door. From 1846 to 1854 the temple was used as a royal palace by the ruler of Chiang Mai, Chao Mahawong after it became part of the Siamese Chakri Dynasty of Bangkok. In 1876 the royal residence was demolished and new temple buildings were constructed. The teak from the old palace building was recycled and used to construct the current viharn (worship or assembly hall).

I find the teak viharn to be quite beautiful. It has a reverant ambiance. I have read that it would be more beautiful if it were refinished in black lacquer rather then its current plain finish. I like it as it is; I typically like the more rustic look at temples.

The inside of the viharn suits its rustic external appearance. The tile is old-looking (although it was installed in 2008), the columns are rich teak, and the look of the interior is fitting in this very historic teak viharn.

To the left and slightly behind the viharn is a beautiful garden that was worthy of a photo or two.

Behind the viharn, as is typical at almost all Buddhist temples, is a chedi (pagoda). The chedi at Wat Phan Tao used to be beautiful with a rustic pewter finish. Starting in 2019, the chedi was refinished with this bright, shiny, finish. I think it looks gaudy – I miss the old look.

After a short visit to Wat Phan Tao, I left the temple and continued north to Khun Ohm for the chi nei tsang session.

Next: Move Day 2 – Wat Chai Sri Phum

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The Author

I am an avid walker, road cyclist, and practice yoga regularly. I walked the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage routes in Spain four times: spring 2016 (880 km), autumn 2017 (800 km), spring 2023 (700 km), and spring 2024 (450 km). I was formerly a computer system administrator for a large medical group based in Los Angeles, California.