Friday 17 January 2025
Exploring Wiang Kum Kam Again

Wat Chedi Liam

Our last stop was Wat Chedi Liam (also Wat Chedi Lem, Wat Chedi Liem, and Wat Ku Kham), a temple that is active today. Wat Chedi Liam is considered a premier attraction of Wiang Kum Kam. Although no ruins exist at Wat Chedi Liam, the pyramidal-shaped chedi is from the early era of the ancient city.

The chedi at Wat Chedi Liam is based on the Ku Kut Chedi at Wat Hariphunchai in Lamphun, and some sources place the chedi’s construction during the lifetime of King Mengrai. It was originally named the Ku Come Chedi, but its present name “Liam” refers to the thinning, square-base, shape of the monument. This shape is derived from the more ancient Mon-Dvaravati style found in Lanna’s predecessor kingdom, Hariphunchai. Lamphun, the former capital city of Hariphunchai, has several ancient chedis with this form, the most notable being the Ku Kut Chedi.

The iconic brick chedi at Wat Chedi Liam is 30 meters tall. Like the Ku Kut Chedi in Lamphun, the Chedi Liam chedi also has 5 tiered levels with niches containing a total of 60 standing Buddha images (12 on each level). Renovations done in 1912 involved applying a new layer of lime stucco to the outer layer of the brick chedi, providing its modern white appearance.

Unlike most of the monuments, which were either partially or entirely submerged by hundreds of years of sediment from river flooding, Wat Chedi Liam continued functioning as an active temple during the Lanna Kingdom. There is archaeological evidence of a site-wide restoration in the 16th Century, and another took place in 1912, which gave the temple its modern look.

Also at Wat Chedi Liam is a fairly recent viharn (worship hall) having been renovated several times since the temple’s founding more than 700 years ago. It is in the typical Lanna style, with a multi-layered, tiered roof sweeping low at the sides, and dramatic Naga serpents protecting the entrance.

An active temple typically has an ubosot (ordination hall) as does Wat Chedi Liam. The ubosot’s roof is in the Lanna style, and the entrance is protected by two fierce mom creatures (pronounced like moam).

That concluded our horse and buggy tour of a few of the archeological sites of Wiang Kum Kam. I am looking forward to returning in a year and exploring sites not on the tour.

Next: Another hike with Rudy