Sunday 22 December 2024
Hiking the Monks’ Trail to Wat Phra That Doi Suthep

It is December 22 in Thailand and still December 21 in the United States, so it is my sister Carol’s birthday (she was a Christmas Carol). In honor of her birthday, I decided to hike up the Monks’ Trail all the way to Wat Phra That Doi Suthep. “Doi” in Thai is “mountain” and “Suthep” is the name of the mountain. The temple near the top of Mt. Suthep is correctly called Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, but it is commonly called Doi Suthep.

I got a ride to Base Camp, walked up the road about 1.5 kilometers to the trailhead and headed up the Monks’ Trail. I met a couple from London, and the three of us made the hike to Wat Phalad together taking about 50 minutes. The start of the trail is definitely uphill, but not terribly steep. Soon, there is a split in the trail. The left branch is steep and rocky. The right branch is less steep, and still rocky.

When the two paths converge, there is another steep and rocky section. These rocky sections are rockier than in years past because of erosion from the heavy late rainy-season storms and rains in Thailand. Those heavy rains caused the worst flooding in Chiang Mai in at least 50 years.

A photo of the second steep and rocky section of the Monks’ Trail.

The path is less rocky after these two sections, and still relentlessly uphill. And at times, there are natural obstacles, fallen trees, foliage to duck under, etc. Regardless of a few challenges, the hike is pleasant. It is quiet in the forest, there are birds chirping, and sometimes our walk is accompanied by the sound of the nearby creek.

We arrived at Wat Phalad. I have posted many photos of Wat Phalad earlier this winter and in past years. I bid farewell to the couple from London and walked to the left of the temple to the path up to the main road from which to start the second part of the hike. Along the path to the road, the waterfall has more water than in years past.

The 30 or 40 meters from Wat Phalad to the road is seriously steep and difficult to negotiate. As always, taking my time, I made it to the road, climbed over the double guardrail, and started looking across the highway for the entrance to the trail.

I met a couple from Italy who were also looking for the trail. I showed them where it was and together we entered the forest (actually in between a forest and a jungle, maybe a little more of a forest). There used to be a narrow orange sash around a large bush at the trail opening, but it disappeared 4 or 5 years ago.

This part of the trail from Wat Phalad to Wat Phra That Doi Suthep is longer than the trail to Wat Phalad, and also quite a bit steeper. I think of this part of the trail as being in three or maybe four sections: the first very steep section, the second steep section, then crossing the creek and the third very steep section, finally the last 30 or 40 meters being the fourth extremely steep section.

Part of the first, very steep section. The photo does not convey just how steep this is – it is as steep or steeper than climbing stairs.

On the second section and third sections, the steep and very steep sections, the forest presents more obstacles and challenges to negotiate.

The three of us got to the end of the trail and walked the 500 meters along the road to the temple. I walked up part of the stairs to the base of the Naga stairway. I have posted many photos of Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, so I passed on climbing up the Naga stairway to the temple and said goodbye to the Italian couple. One quick photo of the Naga at the base of the long stairway (maybe I should have made it a selfie to prove I was there).

I headed down the road to the start of the trail and started down, taking it slowly to avoid slipping. Here are a few photos from that downhill hike. A careful walk, but because it is downhill, faster.

Hiking in this forest always makes for a good day – quiet and peaceful.

When I got down to the road/highway, I walked along the road to the entrance to Wat Phalad rather than negotiating the difficult trail to the back of Wat Phalad. At the entrance to Wat Phalad, there are two small pavilions. On the left is a pavilion guarded by two large Singha lion-like mythical creatures. Inside is a colorful decoration and a gold Buddha image.

Walking down the road to the actual entrance to the temple grounds, the entrance is also guarded by large Singha lions. Many cars are here today. A photo of the bamboo-lined entrance and a close-up of the Singha.

Once into the Wat Phalad temple grounds, I went across the creek and down the Monks’ Trail. Many people are on the trail today enjoying the peaceful hike in the forest and the meditative ambiance of Wat Phalad.

Next: Returning to temples north of the old city.