Wednesday, April 26, 2023
Walking from Riolobos to Carcaboso
21.5 kilometers

We are well into our third week walking the Via de la Plata Camino pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela. We are feeling strong and getting stronger. My biggest concern has been the slow healing of the large blisters on the ball of my right foot. This is getting better every day. Yesterday was the first day that I did not feel pain with every step, in fact, yesterday I did not feel pain at all in my right foot. I’m still taking care of it to ensure that there is no relapse.

This post will only have short text, I’m tired, it is late, and I’m hoping the pictures will tell the story today.

Generally, this Camino pilgrimage has been uplifting. The Spanish people are very supportive of pilgrims, and their pride in supporting the Camino is ever-present. There are a few who are not so uplifting, but we forget about them and choose to remember the good people, especially the exceptional. There are so many good people to remember. Like the man in Cañaveral who kept his cafe open for almost an hour past afternoon closing just for us after our long hot walk. And there are so many more. And they are a reminder of how we should always be supportive of others.

Today is the second half of our having broken up the 38-kilometer stage that some of the traditional guidebooks suggest into two approximately 20-kilometer stages. The day started a little warmer than recent days at 13 C (55 F), and I did not even consider using my jacket. It is expected to reach 30 C (86 F) today, and we are happy that even though we got a bit of a late start at 8:10 AM, we will not be walking in the heat of the mid-to-late afternoon. Here we are saying goodbye to the private apartment accommodation in Riolobos.

We knew from the outset that much of today would be walking on paved roads in farmland. Fortunately, there was little traffic on these farm roads. Unfortunately, since there was little traffic, some of the motorists drove a little fast, reminding us to keep alert always when on roads like these.

Javier got a photo of our shadows on a farm building in the early morning.

And the road just continued through very pleasant scenery of green pastures and forested areas.

Nearing Galisteo, I got a photo of a fairly large solar farm. Most of the time the view was obliterated by large trees and bushes at the side of the road, so I could not get a good angle to see more of it. We were walking by it for more than 15 minutes.

Javier got a photo of me walking down the road nearing Galisteo.

When a large tractor approaches and it is large enough to take most of the road, I must go into the brush beside the road to let it pass.

We got to Galisteo and hiked up the steep hill to the old historic city. Here I am at the arched gateway entering the old city.

We saw that a Correos (Spanish post office) office was open so I could send some items I’m not using to Santiago de Compostela. Ivar, who runs the Camino Forum on the internet, provides a service whereby for a small fee you can send things to him to keep until you arrive in Santiago de Compostela. The items were not heavy but were taking space in my backpack. The larger item was the bag I use to check my hiking poles to travel to and from Spain, and I do not need that until my return trip home. When the shipping all got sorted out and the items were on their way, we sat down for a cafe con leche, then walked around exploring the old city of Galisteo. Here is what I think was an old monastery in the old city of Galisteo

By the old monastery, there were stairs leading up to the top of the wall.

Javier got this photo of me climbing the stairs to the top of the wall. Tom is already at the top taking pictures.

After a careful climb down the very steep and worn stone steps, I got a photo of Tom photographing a large section of the stone/rock wall.

Leaving Galisteo, I noticed there are large tiered gardens on the way out of town.

After leaving Galisteo, we crossed a reasonably large river, the Rio Jerte.

Then we were back on the road to the village of Aldehuala del Jerte and then on to Carcaboso.

On the road nearing the village of Aldehuala Del Jerte, only 6 kilometers more to Carcaboso

Finally, we made it to Carcaboso, and fortunately, the albergue in which we are staying was very close. It is hot, we are tired and ready to sit down, rest, and have an after-walk drink plus food.

Albergue in Carcaboso

We dropped off our backpacks, washed our faces, and headed out to a nearby cafe for a drink and lunch. I’m having my Coca-Cola while Tom and Javier are having beer.

Tom had a bocadillo. In Mexico, a bocadillo is a one-bite appetizer, what here might be called a “tapa.” In Spain, a bocadillo is a VERY large sandwich, essentially a baguette sliced and filled with various things. Here is Tom’s bocadillo.

I had a combination plate of hamburger, eggs, and french fries. After several days of ham, I wanted a little change, and it was delicious.

A good day but with too much road walking. The day has ended, my foot is getting better, and our spirits are lifted by this beautiful country with such nice and caring people.

Next: Carcaboso to Jarilla