Sunday, April 23, 2023
Walking from Valdesalor to Casar de Cáceres
26.6 kilometers

Today marks the end of two full weeks of walking on the Via de la Plata route of the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage routes to Santiago de Compostela. We started walking from Seville in southern Spain two weeks ago, and today completed our second week. Today’s walk led us from Valdesalor through Cáceres to Casar de Cáceres. Cáceres is a very old and historically significant city in Spain, and today was a festival day. We enjoyed a break from walking, explored the historic old town, and picked up a few stamps in our pilgrim credentials. Then we were back on the road, up a very long, rocky, and difficult hill to get out of Cáceres and back onto the flatter pasture land for the approximately 10-kilometer walk to Casar de Cáceres.

This post will include more pictures than I normally post in a day, and thus, somewhat less text. It was a good day, a long day, and my feet are holding their own, improving every day. We have a few longer days ahead of us, so this improvement is a good sign.

The sun was rising as we left Valdesalor in the very cool (7 C, 46 F) early morning.

Well into the morning the sun was out and the day warming quickly, but still comfortably. I took a photo of Tom and Javier on the road to Cáceres.

We found throughout the morning that today was another day of rocky roads. Hard on the feet, and fortunately, my feet survived all right. Tom walks in walking sandals, Javier in what is often called “trail runners” and neither would provide enough protection for the bottom of my feet. I’m using Keen Logan model hiking shoes with a stiff sole to protect my feet.

I got a photo of a very natural and green part of the path as we walked through tall grasses and bushes. A very pleasant part of the walk.

We were nearing Cáceres and could see it on the horizon. This is always deceptive because it seems close, and there might be as much as an hour still to walk to actually get to the town.

We received over WhatsApp a photo of Monique and Herve (I think that is his name), our friends from France who were already in Cáceres enjoying the festivities. They are very experienced pilgrims, having walked over 7000 kilometers on many routes to Santiago de Compostela and also to Rome. Because they have a shorter timetable, they will be skipping ahead a few days, and we will not see them again. We will miss their spirit and always positive energy.

On the way into Cáceres, we saw a slightly different Camino arrow sign, one that depicts the Roman arch with the path going through the arch. Interestingly, some governmental agencies are emphasizing the Roman history of this Camino route, the Via de la Plata.

As we approached the old part of Cáceres, we passed this historic bridge, up the hill to the left (seems that the “good things” are often uphill), and into the old historic part of the city.

Here is a photo showing the narrow rock streets and stone buildings of the old historic Cáceres.

There were many, many historic buildings, including a convent, the museum, and a Parador hotel. We went inside the Cáceres Parador to ask about getting a stamp, and they welcomed us and were happy to stamp our credentials.

After exploring the Parador a bit, we went to the museum.

Here is Tom talking to the security guard. They were also most welcoming and were interested in where we started and how far we planned to go. Nice people who also gave us a stamp in our credentials.

On our way to see the cathedral, there were many entertainers since this is a festival day.

Through the buildings, we could see the Cáceres cathedral.

When we got there, Mass was starting, so no tourists were allowed. A photo of the entrance:

On our way to the Plaza Mayor, I started talking to some police officers in front of us. They, too, were very interested in our pilgrimage and were very friendly. It might have been nice to get the phone number of one of the ladies and ask them to dinner, but I’m just fantasizing a little. The group was happy to stop for a photo. And, no, I did not do anything to have them arrest me, but that’s an idea…not a good one, but an idea.

Time to get back on the road to Casar de Cáceres. The street on which we walked to leave town, following the yellow Camino arrows, was lined with beautiful roses, block after block, after block.

Then there we were, where a group of yellow arrows directed us off the paved street and onto the path over the very substantial hill leading out of Cáceres and back into pasture land. I did not quite get Tom’s head in the photo, here he is, making sure I do not miss the correct route.

The hill out of Cáceres was long and fairly steep. Wow, this is a long, tough, and rocky climb. There are so, so many rocks in Spain. My feet did not enjoy this, but they made it with no serious pain.

The climb was long, and the view from the top was stunning. We saw a yellow arrow, so we knew we were really supposed to climb that hill. Time for some water.

We walked down the hill and onto plains-like pasture land. Here is Tom ahead of me on the route to Casar de Cáceres.

A long walk, but the views are quite stunning, long, long vistas in all directions.

In a low point on the road, there was a stepping-stone type bridge and large flat rocks to prevent erosion in the low point of the road. No water here today, though.

The road goes and goes and goes as far as can be seen. Javier is ahead of me here on that long, long road.

Then Casar de Cáceres came into view, we walked into town and found out albergue. Another fairly spartan, basic albergue. A place to get a shower, wash clothes, sleep, and be ready for a longer 33-kilometer walk tomorrow to Cañaveral.

A long day and a good day on the Via de la Plata Camino route. I’m feeling good, my feet are improving, and I am ready for the 33-kilometer day

Next Casar de Cáceres to Cañveral.