Wednesday, April 19, 2023
Walking from Torremejia to Mérida
18.4 kilometers

Today is another cool day in southern Spain. Cool in the morning, good for walking, and warming as morning progresses to almost hot in the afternoon. The hotness of the afternoon is not good for walking, we leave early to walk in the cool morning and arrive early in the afternoon. But after going through the daily routine of checking in, getting lunch, having a shower and washing clothes, the hot sunny afternoon is good for drying the clothes outside hanging on the line, giving out walking clothes a nice freshness as they dry in the sun.

We left the tiny town of Torremejias in the early morning, as we typically do. It was still a little bit dark, but not so much so that we sould not find the markers to point us to the Camino route to Mérida. We are headed for the hills in the far background of the photo. Unclear to me yet how much climbing that will mean, or perhaps we will be walking between the hills.

As we left the small town (tiny is a better adjective) and were in the farm fields, I caught this photo of the sun rising over the expansive olive groves:

Javier took a photo of Leonard and me walking and talking in the early morning.

The path was close to a road for a long time and then fell away into farmland. Javier got another photo of me taking a picture of something as we continued on the mostly straight Camino path north to Mérida.

We all stopped where we found some shade to take off our backpacks and have a mid-morning second breakfast or large snack. Then we crossed over a railroad track and saw that it was a passenger line. And a train was coming so we got out of the way – these trains go very fast! The sign indicates 150 km/hour which is over 90 miles per hour. [The electrified lines in Spain run up to 300 km/hour in most places, as I experienced on the ride from Madrid to Seville.]

Unfortunately, the Camino route has us back on the shoulder of a highway. Fortunately, it is not very busy, but still not at all our favorite place to walk.

As Mérida started to appear in the distance, Javier got this photo of Leonard and me walking ahead.

As we got closer and closer to Mérida, I got a photo of Javier ahead of me, and far in the distance, the speck of red was Tom.

As we rounded a corner, I got this view of Mérida in the distance through the wildflowers.

After walking along a park by the river, we came to the old Roman bridge into the city of Mérida. There are many examples of Roman ruins in Mérida. Once we get to the albergue and go through our routine, Tom and Leonard want to visit some of the more significant ruins. Even though I am seldom in a place like Mérida lush with ancient ruins, I need to rest my right foot. While it is getting better, it has a way to go – rest is the best thing.

The Roman bridge is now a pedestrian and cyclist bridge – no motor vehicles allowed. The motorway into Mérida is now on this new bridge about two hundred meters upriver from the Roman bridge.

Finally, we made our way to the albergue in Mérida. It is along the river and in this old rustic building. Unfortunately, it was dismal inside, a bare-bones place to sleep for the night. For only 10 Euros, I’m not complaining, but it was not very satisfying and easily forgettable.

On our way to find lunch, we made our way to the center of town and came upon a church. We asked about getting a stamp in our pilgrim credential, and the lady at the museum said there were none available. While leaving, we saw a priest and asked him. He very politely took us into his office and carefully stamped each of our credentials. Here is a photo of the church, a very nice and very old church.

And here is a photo of the stamps in my pilgrim’s credential. We get them where we stay, sometimes where we have dinner, at churches and other places, like a tourist office. It has been said that the police departments have stamps. I’m not sure I want to experience being arrested in Spain just to get an additional stamp in my credential. Here is my credential to date:

Today was a good day. Not a long walking day at only 18.4 kilometers. My right foot needs more rest, and because I am giving as much rest as possible, it is improving, albeit slowly. I am hopeful. Tomorrow is another shorter day of about 17 kilometers, so hopefully the stress on the foot will not be significant.

While walking back from dinner, I happened on this sign on an apartment building indicating Andy Warhol-themed apartments.

Next: Mérida to Aljucén