Wednesday, December 14, 2022
Wat Sri Suphan, The Silver Temple

Having left Wat Chedi Luang, I continued south through Chiang Mai Gate, and onto Wua Lai Road, a road that runs southwest from Chiang Mai Gate. This is the silver district of Chiang Mai. There are many silver and jewelry shops and craftsmen working in this area, particularly on Wua Lai Road. In the past, I have shopped for and bought gifts for friends here. Wua Lai Road is also known as the location of the Saturday Walking Street Market, a smaller, but similar market to the Sunday Night “Walking Street” Market inside the old city.  [Walking Street refers to the streets being closed for the market so everyone can walk in the street.]

A small lane off Wua Lai Road leads to Wat Sri Suphan (sometimes spelled Wat Srisuphan), fairly well-marked, but it is easy to miss the signs. This is an old temple site, with a temple here first founded in 1501. Over the centuries, the temple has undergone several renovations and redesigns.

Wat Sri Suphan is an interesting temple, and an important temple to the Buddhists. Of the approximately 30,000 active Buddhist temples in Thailand, Wat Sri Suphan is one of 25 listed as a Royal Temple of the First Class. There are only two Royal Temples of the First Class in Chiang Mai, Wat Sri Suphan and Wat Phra Singh. The famous Wat Phra That Doi Suthep is a Royal Temple of the Second Class, and Wat Suan Dok is a Royal Temple of the Third class.

I did not miss the signs (I have been here mmany, many times), and was soon at Wat Sri Suphan. Hereis the The English-language sign on one side of the entrance to Wat Sri Suphan:

The rainy season this year saw much more and more intense rain than in typical years. The chedi at Wat Sri Suphan became undermined and collapsed. The area had been blocked off after growing cracks were seen. Here is the link to a YouTube short videl showing the collapse of the chedi: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=w1OXkJapahE. I first went to see the state of the collapsed chedi. Here is what I saw.

Not much cleanup has been done except fencing off the area. And it is unclear if a new chedi will be built. I suspect so, the question is when. A chedi is a very sacred structure, so there are likely many rituals that must be followed throughout the cleanup and rebuild process. Here is a view from the other side through the fence. It basically looks like a large pile of bricks.

I made my way back to the main entrance to go into the area with the “silver” ubosot (an ordination hall where monks are ordained). First greeting is by this silver ganesh, an elephant Hindu deity representing wealth, success and good luck, at which people are almost always praying or worshiping:

Then I made my way to the silver ubosot, the main attraction at this temple.

Wat Sri Suphan was established in 1502 during the reign of King Kaeo, the eleventh ruler of the Mengrai Dynasty. Nothing but some old pillars remain of the original construction and the temple has been rebuilt many times. The most recent reincarnation of the temple began in 2004 under the direction of the abbot, Phra Kru Phithatsuthikhun. Instead of using standard temple renovation techniques, the abbot utilized the skill and knowledge of local silversmiths. The result is a building covered in silver metal which shimmers in the sunlight and is full of intricate details.

The craftsmen at Wat Sri Suphan work with nickel and aluminium for the ordination hall, although there is also  some silver used in the construction of important images. The effect is certainly dazzling and unusual with a mass of repoussé and chased work, as well as carved figures, covering the exterior and interior and certainly makes for a great photographs.

“Repoussé” working literally means “pushed from behind” and refers to the working of the malleable metal sheets from behind with hammers creating reliefs. “Chasing” is the opposite and refers to the working of the metal from the front to create the finished design. Both methods are used for the decoration of the Silver Ubosot at Wat Sri Suphan.

Right by the entrance is this pair of yaksha guardians. Quoting Wikipedia, “yaksha are a broad class of nature-spirits, usually benevolent, but sometimes mischievous or capricious, connected with water, fertility, trees, the forest, treasure and wilderness.”

Here is the entrance to the silver ubosot at Wat Sri Suphan:

And to prove that I was really there…here I am in front of the Silver Ubosot, about to enter:

Inside the Silver Ubosot, a very “silver” place with the striking gold Buddha statue:

The east side of the Silver Ubosot, showing that even the roof has the “silver” treatment and finishing:

And here is the back of the Silver Ubosot. I’m told that the diagrams on the sides and back are something of a story about the temple and/or the area. That seems right, but I do not know enough about the history to make sense of what I am seeing.

I walked over to the viharn (worship or assembly hall), and found it closed. Perhaps for remodeling, or perhaps because the chedi at the back must be rebuilt. It is too bad – I like this viharn.

Started the walk through the silver district to The 3-Sis. Another good day in Chiang Mai revisiting two of my favorite temples.

Next: Walking back from Chiang Mai Ram