Saturday, January 1, 2022
Second PCR Test and The Khao Soi Challenge

Today is the first day of a new year. And everyone is hoping that this year will be better than last in many ways. I have no celebration or events planned today. From the window of my room at See You Soon, I did get to see the fireworks display last night from the 2022 Countdown celebration at Thapae Gate. And the display was very impressive. Most Asian countries celebrate the new year in a large way. In Thailand, for two years after King Rama IX, Bhumibol Adulyadej, passed away in 2016, the country was in a period of mourning so there were no celebratory displays at all. In 2019, the celebration was quite modest, very toned down in comparison to the celebrations in the years before 2016. Then came the global pandemic, and there were no celebrations. This year is a renewal of hope, and while a modest celebration, the fireworks were quite impressive.

Second PCR Test

For those who entered Thailand on the “Test and Go” program as I did, a PCR test is required when entering the Kingdom, then a second PCR test is required 5-7 days after the first. Today is day number 6, so with no other plans, it seems a good day to make the journey for the PCR test. This PCR test is free for those on the “Test and Go” program, since we already paid for the tests as part of the program, and we were given a pink sheet that acts as a voucher for the test. Although the government web site for the “Test and Go” program lists a few locations in Chiang Mai for the second “Test and Go” PCR test, I called the two closest to me and both told me that they were not part of the program, to either go to Lanna Hospital, or pay 3000 THB (about $100) for a test. I called Lanna Hospital, and they said no appointments were needed, to just walk in at Building C.

Lanna Hospital is about 10 kilometers away – not easily walkable. I gathered my documents, got a Grab ride (Grab in Thailand is like Uber in the U.S.) for 100 THB (about $3.30) and off we went. Arrived, figured out the system, then realized I forgot my passport, a required item. So, I got a ride back to See You Soon after negotiating with the driver to take me both ways and wait as I got my passport. Within 45 minutes, I was back at Lanna Hospital, now with everything I needed. Turned in my documents, was given number 114, and started to wait. The numbers were not being called in order. They were calling numbers in the 90s, then the 70s, then suddenly #111 (the fellow next to me), then #112, then #114, me (what happened to #113?). Had the test, nasal and oral swabs, was told to expect the results via email in less than 24 hours, and off I went for another ride back to See You Soon. Yay! My second PCR test is done.

Khao Soi Challenge

After the PCR test was over, I decided to celebrate in a small way with khao soi for a late lunch or dinner. Khao soi is a well-known northern Thai curry noodle dish, typically very spicy. Paraphrasing from Wikipedia, khao soi is:

a Chin Haw dish historically served in Laos and northern Thailand. The name literally means ‘cut rice’, although it is possible that it is simply a corruption of the Burmese word for noodles – “khao swè” – which may account for the variations. Traditionally, the dough for the rice noodles is spread out on a cloth stretched over boiling water. After steaming the large sheet noodle is then rolled and cut with scissors. Lao khao soi is traditionally made with hand sliced rice noodles in clear soup broth and topped with minced pork and tomato sauce.

I have never seen khao soi with tomato sauce, and I’ve never seen pork khao soi, but Wikipedia goes on to clarify this:

Northern Thai khao soi or Khao Soi Islam is closer to the present day Burmese ohn no khao swè, being a soup-like dish made with a mix of deep-fried crispy egg noodles and boiled egg noodles, pickled mustard greens, shallots, lime, ground chilies fried in oil, and meat in a curry-like sauce containing coconut milk.[8] The curry is somewhat similar to that of yellow or massaman curry but of a thinner consistency. It is popular as a street dish eaten by Thai people in northern Thailand, though not frequently served in Thai restaurants abroad. There is some reason to believe that the Thai version of khao soi was influenced by Chinese Muslim cuisine and was therefore likely served with chicken or beef.

Typically, a small ladle of hot coconut milk is added just before serving, and a small plate of picked mustard greens, shallots, and lime is served on the side so you can add as you see fit. Also, there is typically a bowl of chilli paste on the table also to add as you like, sort of like “sweeten to taste,” but in this case, add spice to taste. In my experience, kho soi as served before adding chilli paste is very, very spicy.

Mark Wiens is a Chinese-American, married to a Thai lady who lives in Thailand and travels around SE Asia making food-related You Tube videos. He made a video of the five best bowls of khao soi in Chiang Mai. My friend John sent me the link when I asked for a recommendation for a khao soi dinner: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cqzON6oWpOE Mark Wiens and his friends ate five bowls of khao soi in the same day!

The four of the five khao soi restaurants in reasonable walking distance from See You Soon are:

1. Khao Soi Islam, Charoen Prathet Soi 1, near Thapae Road
2. Khao Soi Lung Prakit Kaat Gorm, 53/5 Suriyawong Road, south of Chiang Mai Gate
3. Khao Soi Khun Yai, Sri Phum Soi 8, across the moat from Wat Lok Molee
4. Khao Soi Maesai, 29 Ratchaphuek Soi 1, north of Huay Kaew Road, east of Maya Mall

The fifth is in Mae Rim, about 15 kilometers north. I spontaneously decided to eat khao soi at all four places in four days. Being that this was New Year’s Day, only one of the four was open, and only until 5 PM, and since it was already close to 4, I got a ride to Khao Soi Islam to ensure that I was not late. There are two khao soi restaurants next to each other in this soi (a “soi” is a small lane, smaller than a road, larger than an alley), both run by Islams. Of the two, I did not choose the same restaurant at which Mark Wiens and his friends ate. So I’ll add the correct one as a fifth to my list.

Khao Soi Islam #1

Since almost everyone comes in and orders khao soi, they have it ready in about 2 minutes. The lady taking my order recommended the beef over the chicken, so I ordered a bowl of khao soi beef and a bottle of water. Talk about good – it reminds me of the first time I had Vietnamese Pho, a rich, complex, flavorful broth. This was a complex curry broth that takes many steps and much time to make. Everything together was a treat. I was planning on getting a picture before I added the pickled mustard greens, shallots, and chillie paste, but was eager to try it, so I did not get a picture until I had it all mixed together:

And quite affordable at 50 THB for the khao soi and 10 THB for the bottle of water for a total of 60 THB (about $2). Here is the restaurant:

The restaurant at which Mark Wiens and his friends ate has a sign with a blue background, and is right next door.

I have visited Chiang Mai eight previous winters for 5-6 weeks each time. I walk around the city every day. I typically know where I am. When I left this soi, I turned left onto a road I thought was Thapae Road, but it was not. Pretty soon I was not at all sure where I was, and nothing was familiar. I got to an intersection, started looking around being very puzzled wondering just where I was, then looked down the street and saw the Hard Rock Cafe Chiang Mai. I was right near the Night Bazaar. I seldom go to that area, and when I do, it is from the west. I had come down the road from the north, a not very familiar road. I was not really lost, just a little disoriented. I crossed over to Loi Kroh Road, and headed back to See You Soon to end my day.

Having my PCR test done and starting the khao soi challenge (with myself) made for an interesting day in Chiang Mai. Now when the PCR test results come [assuming they are negative for Covid], I’ll be able to get back to Wild Rose Yoga.

Next: Wat Srisuphan more khao soi