Monday, December 27, 2021
Traveling Bangkok to Chiang Mai

Adjusting to the time in Thailand will take a few days, maybe even a week. Thailand is 15 hours ahead of Pacific Time. So although I was very tired I did not fall asleep as early as I had hoped, and then I was wide awake at a little after 2 in the morning. This would be noon Pacific Time. Tried to just lay quietly, and I may have dozed off briefly, but by 5 I just got up and got ready for the short day of travel to Chiang Mai. Since my COVID test results returned last night negative for COVID, I am free to leave my room and go to the main restaurant for the breakfast buffet. A very nice buffet, and being hungry, I assembled a hearty western-style breakfast. Here is a picture.

After breakfast I connected to work and got caught up on work-related e-mail. The flight to Chiang Mai was scheduled for 1:35 PM, so at 10:30 I made my way over to the airport and up to level 4 for domestic departures. The domestic departures level was in short, crowded, appearing as busy as I have experienced in pre-pandemic years. This was surprising. The Thai people are on the move in Thailand. I tried to manage the self check-in and self baggage check with some assistance by the attendant, but the computer reported that my larger bag was 1 kilogram over weight. Had my smaller bag not already been sent away, I could have done some minor packing adjustments. My only recourse was to go to the attended check-in and pay a fee for an over weight bag. The attendant there double-checked everything, and said it was fine – no charge. So off I went to security.

Domestic departure security has changed since I was here two years ago. Where the main security used to be is now a less intense security checkpoint. Computers can stay in carry on luggage, etc. After going through this check, I made the long walk to the A and B gates. Then, for each of those, there was a second, and more intense security checkpoint. Then to the gate, and boarding on time at 1:00. The flight was completely full – every seat taken, almost all Thais. The flight from Bangkok to Chiang Mai is 65 minutes, and we landed on time. Baggage claim was also crowded, and the luggage came out very promptly. Got an airport taxi to the city (150 Baht, or $5), and by about 3:15 I was walking in to See You Soon, where I shall be living for the next four weeks. See You Soon is a guest house with 6 rooms above a fairly busy restaurant and shop, and is in the middle of the old city, right where I want to be.

In prior years I stayed at The 3-Sis Guest House about 100 meters north of See You Soon. Two years ago, the 3-Sis was under renovation, and because all construction was stopped for a long period, that renovation is not yet complete The 3-Sis is so named being owned by three sisters; really the family. I know the three sisters, and the parents. Poppy manages The 3-Sis, and about 5 years ago, her sister Ice and husband Ball opened See You Soon. The third sister and her husband live in Bangkok with their now 5-year old son. The family also owns another, slightly larger hotel east of the old city. I got settled and went for a walk to see what has changed over the past two pandemic years.

First stop was back at The 3-Sis to see if construction progress was evident. Since I saw it two years ago, there has been progress, even though it is not obvious in this picture:

Wat Chedi Luang

Across the street from The 3-Sis is Wat Chedi Luang, a very important Buddhist temple in Thailand. I have reported on the history several times in past years, so I’ll skip that for now. There was a foreigner entrance added about 3 years ago in which foreigners had to pay 30 Baht (about $1). This entrance is now closed:

So I wandered over to the main entrance and walked in, no charge. Wat Chedi Luang is typically very busy, and in comparison, it was extremely quiet today. Part of the reason is the pandemic, but also, the main viharn (worship hall) is under renovation. This viharn, called the Phra Viharn Luang, has been rebuilt several times in history, and houses the much revered Phra Chao Attorat standing Buddha.

Walking by the side of the main viarn showed this further evidence of the renovation

At the back of the viharn is the large chedi (pagoda) and for hundreds of years, was the largest structure in northern Thailand. In 1545 an earthquake caused the upper 30 meters of the 80 meter high chedi to collapse. There are no records of how it appeared before the earthquake, so it has not been restored because to restore it improperly would bring it great dishonor.

Here is a view from where I very frequently sat for my morning meditation.

Tha Phae Gate

One of the most famous entrances to the old, walled city of Chiang Mai is Tha Phae Gate, the entrance through the wall on the east side. There are five entrances or gates, Suan Dok Gate on the west, Chang Phuak Gate on the north, Tha Phae Gate on the east, and Suan Prung Gate and Chiang Mai Gate on the south. The moat is covered outside Tha Phae Gate, and many events and celebrations are held here. The 2022 New Year celebration will be focused here. A view of Tha Phae Gate:

I then walked up along the east side of the old city, by the moat. The Japanese occupied Thailand during World War II and dismantled much of the old city wall to use the bricks to pave the road to Pai to move military equipment as construction materials were in short supply. The gates, the corner bastions, and some parts of the wall were restored in the 1960s and more in the 1980s. Here is a view of the moat looking north just a bit north of Tha Phae Gate:

Sri Phum Corner

At each of the four corners of the wall were large bastions housing the army that guarded Chiang Mai city. Here is a picture of Sri Phum Corner, the northeast corner bastion of the old city wall.

Monument to the Three Kings

King Mengrai founded and built Chiang Rai, about 185 kilometers (115 miles) north of Chiang Mai, but it was too close to Burman and the Burmese and his people battled frequently. In the 1290s, King Mengrai and two neighboring kings, and King of Sukhothai and the king of Phayao founded Chiang Mai. This is a monument to the Three Kings at the center of Chiang Mai:

I walk by this area frequently and just love this statue – they look so proud and self-assured.

Time to end the day – A beautiful albeit hot day in Chiang Mai. I am very tired from adjusting to Thai time. It will happen eventually.

Next: A hike up to Wat Phalad