Tuesday, January 7, 2020
A mellow, rest day in Chiang Mai
I have been practicing yoga every day, walking around the old city every day, and some fatigue is easing in. Time for some rest and a bit of rejuvenation. After breakfast and catching up on personal and work e-mail. I decided to go in search of the Samlaan Barber who cut my hair very nicely twice while I was here last year. While in Chiang Mai, I keep my hair much shorter than at home – it is hot, humid, and with the aggressive and strong yoga practice, it is easier for me to have very short hair. My Australian friend Tom, who is not here this year due to work-related priorities, told me about this barber last year. Tom’s directions were ambiguous, as I recall, he said something about turning at the 7-Eleven on Samlaan Road near the Amrita Garden cafe and going south a bit. I did find it, but passed about three other barbers on the way. The barber is on a Samlaan Soi 7, a very small soi (lane) just north on Suan Prung Gate, and at the entrance to Wat Phuak Hong, a small, local temple.
Wat Phuak Hong
Today, I walked to the barber, and there was a bit of a wait while he was out having lunch. I went into Wat Phuak Hong to look around. Wat Phuak Hong, also known as the “temple of the flight of swans” is a small temple in the southwestern part of the old city of Chiang Mai near Suan Prune Gate. This is a small temple, with one viharn, a chedi, and a bell tower. And almost nothing else. It is quaint and peaceful. The temple’s main attraction is its multi tiered circular chedi, built in a style very unusual to North Thailand.
The Wat Phuak Hong was built during the 16th or 17th century, when exactly it was founded is not known. The entrance to the temple grounds is guarded by a pair of Chinthe, mythological guardian lions often seen guarding Buddhist temples.
Entrance to Wat Phuak Hong, guarded by Cinthes
The front of the viharn (worship hall) is guarded by another pair of cinthes, and nicely decorated in a typical Lanna gold and ochre colors.
Front of the viharn at Wat Phuak Hong
The doors of the viharn have always been closed when I am here, so I have not seen inside the viharn. The doors are decorated with dancing thewada as is common in northern Thai temples.
Detail of the doors of the viharn with the dancing thewada.
Wat Phuak Hong Circular Chedi
Behind the viharn is a circular chedi that has a name: Chedi Si Phuak Hong. It was believed to have been built during the 16th or 17th century. Its style is very different than other chedi at northern Thai temples. It was either influenced by Yunnanese architecture or it is a circular version of the stepped Mon chedi of the Wat Ku Kut in Lamphun.
View of the viharn, bell tower, and the circular chedi at Wat Phuak Hong.
The chedi is set on a circular base in which are several Kalasa, the golden vase, the symbol of the sun. The Kalasa is often found on top of Hindu temples.
The chedi comprises of seven circular tiers of diminishing size. Each tier contains niches in which are enshrined images of the Buddha, 52 in total. The arches over the niches are adorned with intricate stucco decorations.
Closer view of the circular chedi at Wat Phuak Hong.
After walking around the grounds of Wat Phuak Hong, I returned to the barber.
Entrance to Samlaan Barber, Samlaan Road Soi 7 by Wat Phuak Hong.
The barber remembered me, cut my hair nicely, and I was soon on my way back to Tropical Inn to rest more on this rest day.
Dinner at The Duke’s
Because I love the Thai food with noodles, vegetables, and also the fruit, I was sensing that I am not consuming enough protein. So to change that, I went to The Duke’s down by the Ping River for dinner.
The Dukes – American food
The Duke’s was opened in 2005 by David Anichowski as the first American restaurant by the Ping River in Chiang Mai. David Anichowski loves to eat great food and have a good time with family and friends, and the Duke’s slogan is “No claims…No Games…Just Great food.” It is primarily a steakhouse, plus burgers, pizza, and pasta. The Duke’s sells a lot of fresh beef, using only imported Australian meat for the steaks. All sauces, breads, soups, dressings, and cakes are made fresh daily. I have eaten at The Duke’s about once each time I have been to Chiang Mai, and I have never had anything but an excellent meal. I especially like their burgers, but their salads with the homemade Thousand Island dressing are excellent.
Today I had a small sirloin steak that came with broccoli, fries, and a small salad (with the Thousand Island dressing, of course). [I’m almost drooling just remembering that meal as I write about it.]
Small dinner salad with freshly made Thousand Island dressing, plus some bread (homemade) and a Coke to start dinner at the Duke’s.
Then the steak, fries, and broccoli:
Small sirloin steak, peppercorn sauce, broccoli, and fries for dinner at The Duke’s.
After dinner and walking across the Ping River on the Iron Bridge, near the Night Bazaar, I stopped for a foot massage to end the day very nicely. Then I found an electric tuk-tuk for a quiet ride back to Tropical Inn.
Next: Back to Routine, and the Southeast Quadrant of the Old City
James the Intrepid Pilgrim 