Tuesday, January 22, 2019
A Second Hike Up Doi Suthep, Part 1

Because I have been going to Wild Rose yoga every day, I see and talk with some of the same people. A couple from Germany and a couple from Arizona expressed interest in making the hike up Doi Suthep to visit Wat Phalad and Wat Phra That Dio Suthep. I was also interested in making that hike again. The only day that fit out schedules was Tuesday. This is Chiang Mai University graduation week, and traffic in that area is a challenge, especially after 9:00. So we made plans to take a day off from yoga practice and leave fairly early at 8 AM to get past Chiang Mai University and to the trail head before the traffic became difficult.

Traffic was already heavy, but the driver dropped us off at Wat Fai Hin just before 9. Wat Fai Hin is about 400 meters down the hill from the trail head, and all drivers know Wat Fai Hin, but very few know the trail head, so given the language challenges, it is best to give a known landmark.

Wat Phalad Hiking Trail Start

We hiked up to the trail head, and started the hike to Wat Phalad. Very quickly, we were in the jungle or forest, and all sounds of the city and civilization were gone. The area here is something in between a jungle and a forest. In some places, it looks like a north American forest of small trees, and in other places, it is clearly a jungle, with grasses, bamboo, and vines.

Hiking Trail to Wat Phalad

The first half of the hike to Wat Phalad is at times steep, at other times rocky, but generally not a difficult hike. I still sweat a lot, and had a backpack with me with both water and electrolyte-replacement drink. It takes about 45 minutes to get from the trail head to Wat Phalad.

Wat Phalad

Wat Phalad is a quiet temple in the jungle about half-way up Doi Suthep, the mountain on which the famous Wat Phra That Doi Suthep temple is located. The name Wat Phalad is also spelled Wat Palaad, or Wat Pha Lat. Its formal name is Wat Sakithaka. I wrote about the legend and how Wat Phra That Doi Suthep came to be in my blog post on January 5. When the elephant with the relic on its back came to what is now Wat Phalad, there is a creek and sometimes a waterfall, and it is said that the elephant slipped, sat down for a little while, before continuing up the mountain. Being thought of as an auspicious place, a temple was built here and the name evolved to Wat Phalad. This is a very peaceful temple, as very few tourists stop here on their way to Wat Phra That Doi Suthep. It is build in the jungle, and two of the viharn (worship halls) are open-air, with no sides. This is a very peaceful place for a meditation after the hike.

Stairway guarded by two large Singh at Wat Phalad

Another stairway with the more typical Lanna-styled naga (dragon) on the banisters.

And a look at one of the open-air viharn. I like the natural-looking columns supporting the roof, almost like trees in the forest.

Walking up to another open-air viharn, with quite different decoration.

Inside the viharn, it is quite bright and the open feeling is evident.

And slightly behind this viharn is this structure in which a large seated Buddha statue sits watch.

There is much renovation and construction taking place at Wat Phalad, and many workers. The chedi is in need of a good cleaning and restoration, and it is in progress.

The enclosed viharn is under renovation and not currently open to visitors. Notice the familiar peacock motif over the entrance, symbolizing wisdom and royalty.

So with few tourists and few visitors, and thus few donations, how are the renovations funded? I learned that most temples are affiliated in groups. Wat Phalad is affiliated with Wat Chedi Luang, the second or third richest temple in Chiang Mai.

After a rest, a small lunch, and plenty of time to explore, the five of us headed up the mountain to Wat Phra That Doi Suthep.

The second half of the hike is steeper, more difficult, and longer. It takes about 75 minutes or a little longer to hike from Wat Phalad to Wat Phra That Doi Suthep.

Next: Hiking up the mountain part 2, Wat Phra That Doi Suthep