11 October 2017
Walking day 28:
25.5 kilometers

Today started out the coolest so far, at about 5 degrees C (38 F). I decided to walk to Sarria from Triacastela via Samos. Samos is home to one of the oldest monasteries in the western world still operating, having been founded in the 6th century. And the alternative route via Samos from Triacastela to Sarria is mostly in the forest.

I am walking alone today, as many of my friends are either ahead of or behind me. I did walk part of the day with a couple from Carlsbad, California, just about 15  kilometers from where I live in the suburbs of San Diego…very interesting to meet someone who lives close to you when you are 9000 kilometers (6000 miles) from home.

Sarria is significant on the Camino de Santiago because it is 110 kilometers from Santiago de Compostela. To earn a “Compostela” from the pilgrim’s office near the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela, you must show through the stamps in your pilgrim’s credential that you walked at least 100 kilometers. So, Sarria, being 110 kilometers from Santiago de Compostela is a natural starting point for many pilgrims. I could see many people at dinner tonight who appeared to be excited about starting to walk tomorrow morning.

Leaving Triacastela, there are two routes one can take. The normal route is via San Xil, and the alternate route via Samos allows one to see the old monastery, but is about 6 or 7 kilometers longer. Often, the “alternate” route takes one away from a Camino path that is close to or by a highway, but is often longer. Both routes today are mostly in the forest, not on or by highways. Having said that, just after the split point, on the way to Samos, we were right next to a highway:

This was the case for about 3 kilometers, or more than half an hour. During this time, I met Martin from The Netherlands and his wife. Martin started his walk to Santiago from his home in The Netherlands. His wife joined him in León. I think Martin said he was on his 88th day of walking.

We came to a way marker, and the indication is that we are 135 kilometers from Santiago de Compostela. It is starting to feel like I can make it. At Burgos, I thought my feet were so bad that I might have to stop and return home. Now, after a few good events that day in Burgos, and with new shoes, I think I can make it. My feet are tired, and there are some aches and pains – my ankles are very tired every day without the support of my hiking boots. All said, it has been a more difficult journey than the last time when I had no foot problems.

Once away from the highway, a good part of the walk from Triacastela to Samos was alongside a small river. It was nice to hear the river in the otherwise quiet valley. As we crossed the river, I got this photo of a little waterfall.

And we continued through the river valley, sometimes by farmland, sometimes in the forest. A very peaceful and serene walking day.

Here the pathway continues in the forest, and then through a short tunnel under the highway. You can see that I was not the only one who took the diversion to Samos.

Shortly after going under the highway, I looked down and I could see the monastery.

A better view of the monastery buildings. And here is one of the main building. Unfortunately, the monks are not allowed to interact with the public, so other than two priests who were talking with visitors (mostly pilgrims), we saw nobody else.

Leaving the rea of the monastery, I noticed that even the metal fence is in tribute to the Camino de Santiago, with the Camino shell symbol in the fence itself.

And then as I left Samos, I saw the familiar “end of Samos” sign.

From Samos, I had another 15 kilometers or three and a half hours (I walk about 4 kilometers per hour, depending on the terrain) to get to Sarria. Much of the walk before the merger of the two routes was in the forest.

And not all smooth and easy. This stretch was rocky, uneven, and climbing, so my speed was much slower.

I came upon this way marker monument. It looks greener than any I have seen. It was unclear if it had been painted green, or the green was some light moss, but it was definitely green.

finally I reached the outskirts of Sarria and began seeing way markers in the sidewalk.

And as I entered Sarria, just as the Camino path crosses the river, there was my hotel. It was a long day walking on the Camino today. I showered, turned my clothes over the the hotel to wash, and went across the river to have my post-walk Coke.

Next: A walk to Portomarín, a town on a lake. The distance is 23 kilometers, and includes two reasonable hills which may cause the new pilgrims a few aches and pains.