08 October 2017
Walking Day 25:
25.5 kilometers
(many, many steps)

We are now in the Bierzo Valley, between the mountains over which we walked as we passed Cruz de Ferro yesterday, and the mountains we will cross tomorrow as we climb up to O’Cebreiro. The Bierzo valley has a microclimate very well-suited for growing grapes, and as the Camino goes through the Bierzo valley, we see many, many vineyards. Today we were in vineyards all of the 25+ kilometer walk.

The Bierzo valley is often called El Bierzo,and Ponferrada is considered the capital of El Bierzo. From what I can read in English, El Bierzo is not a province of the Automonous Region of Castilla y León; El Bierzo is inside the province of León. Based on what people here have told me, there must be some political sub-division allowing El Bierzo to be more autonomous than simply being part of the province of León. Regardless of the actual political structure, it is a beautiful and very historic part of Spain.

The internet is poor in Villafranca del Bierzo, and I cannot upload pictures. So I shall conclude this post and see how the Internet is at the top of O’Cebreiro tomorrow evening. I’ll leave you with the two Camino salutations: Buen Camino!  Ultreia!

Pilgrims often greet each other with “Buen Camino” and people in towns tell us “Buen Camino” as we walk by and say “Buenos Dias.” “Buen Camino” literally translates to “good way!” meaning “have a good journey, a good Camino,” thus its popularity as a pilgrim greeting. The word “Ultreia”  comes from Latin and it means “beyond.” Ultreia is another pilgrim greeting or salute, like the more popular “Buen Camino!” The meaning of “Ultreia!” goes a bit deeper, implying encouragement to keep going, reaching “beyond,” heading onwards.

So whatever journey you are on, Buen Camino! Ultreia!

Here are the pictures:

Leaving the town through a park, on another of those rock-in-cement walkways, we see this way marker set into the sidewalk. There were a whole series of these as we walked through the outskirts of Ponferrada.

And while still in the park with many trees, we saw this very obvious way marker. No question about which way to go for pilgrims.

We got to a little town of Fuentas Nuevas and found this little church. I remember this church from my last Camino, and there I had bought my second Pilgrim’s Credential for the stamps (sellos). I am soon going to fill up my second credential, so I bought a third credential from the lady at this church. A very pretty little church, very elegant in its simplicity.

Shortly after Fuenta Nuevas, we arrived in the small town of Camponaraya. They too have a little church, and I am quite surprised to find that I did not photograph the outside. But they have this beautiful ceiling painting of the Last Supper that I did photograph.

We are deep in the Bierzo valley, famous for the vineyards. And for the rest of the walk, we are in vineyards, almost as far as we can see. The autumn colors are quite obvious all around, even on the grape vines. These vineyards have all been harvested; there are no grapes to be seen.

Around a bend, down a hill and up another, and more vineyards. In the distance, there are trees, and the fall colors are becoming very obvious.

In a little town of Cacabelos, we found this little church. I was hoping to see and photograph the inside, but Mass was in progress, so we passed by.

Cacabelos had very nice way markers in the sidewalks through the town.

Tom got a shot of me walking in the vineyards, a shot of my back so you can see that I really do have a backpack…and there is that ever present hat.

Just a few more hills before Villafranca del Bierzo, a little town of 3500, surrounded by the vineyards of the El Bierzo region.

Even as we are making our final approach to the town, the vineyards are there on our right. We finally reach the town, the last stop before climbing out of the Bierzo valley tomorrow. It is Sunday, and everything except hotels and bar/cafes are closed.

Here is a heavily-shadowed shot of my little hotel. Tom, Julie, and I had dinner together, and we got mentally prepared for the walk tomorrow out of the Bierzo Valley region known as El Bierzo.

Next: tomorrow will be long, over 28 kilometers, including a VERY steep 7-8 kilometer climb up to O’Cebreiro. Fortunately, with autumn in the air, the mornings are cool, and good for walking. No rain is expected; it will be a good day, but a long day on the Camino de Santiago.