24 September 2017
Walking Day 12:
21.0 kilometers
29,375 steps

After what became a rest day for my feet yesterday, I am thankful that our first day onto the meseta (the plains) was to be fairly short, 21 kilometers (13.5 miles). I am walking on my new North Face hiking shoes. So far they are far more comfortable than walking in my Keen H2 sandals. The significance of today’s stage is entering the meseta, where we shall be for the next 10 days.

The meseta is the plains, and the terrain is rolling, but mostly flat. The area is rich with grain farming, primarily wheat, but other cereal crops as well. There are a few flocks of sheep in this area, but it is very much dominated by grain farmland. Because the vistas are repetitive, some find it less stimulating; while others find it a good place to think, because there is not much else to do on these long stretches through the farmland.

A not-insignificant number of pilgrims skip the meseta by train, bus, or taxi to León, the next large city (population 200,000) and close to the end of the meseta.

To get to the meseta, we first must leave Burgos. I was walking today with Jeff and Tracey from Minnesota. We were staying in the same hotel and had breakfast together, then started walking together. My Australian friends Tom and Julie made an excursion to Bilbao yesterday, so I expect to see them on the road at some point. Tom and Julie like to walk fairly fast, and with new shoes, today is a good day for me to moderate my pace.

Leaving Burgos, the Camino path goes right behind the cathedral. The cathedral dominates the view from practically anywhere – it is large. Here is a view approaching the back of the cathedral:

Once we got to the back of the cathedral, there is what looks like and old doorway, so we stopped for pictures. Here I am with my newly cut and very short hair (you cannot really see how short my hair is, there will be more pictures…):

And here is Jeff and Tracey:

Soon we were leaving Burgos after crossing a bridge in a park. A very peaceful part of the walk:

So off we go, out of Burgos, and onto the meseta.

Writers often discuss the Camino as being in three phases:

1. The first section is all about your body – your feet hurt, your legs are sore or hurt, you are not sleeping well, the food is different, your backpack is too heavy. After a couple of weeks, about when reaching Burgos and the start of the meseta, the physical things are resolved or are being managed.
2. The second section, mostly the meseta, is all about the mind. The scenery, while beautiful, is repetitive, and there is ample time to think…to think about everything; much time for introspection. For some, this is uncomfortable; for others, a welcome part of the journey.
3. The third section is much more uplifting, spiritual, and even religious. A feeling of accomplishment comes as the destination of Santiago de Compostela is closer and closer.

We are now on the meseta, and into the second section of the Camino journey.

In the small town of Tardajos, I stopped to photograph the waymarker painted on the walking area. My shadow presents and interesting view.

Across the Rio Urbel and we are about to start the gradual climb to the actual meseta.

And here we are, walking along on the rolling plains, mostly flat. But the are hills, and the descent into Hornillos del Camino is steep and rocky.

Here, in the distance, the town can be seen. Unfortunately, when you can see the town, your brain wants to stop. But there is still half an hour to go (or sometimes more).

I made it to my hotel, feet and all. My feet are much better in these new shoes. There is healing still in progress, but the improvement is notable. I am encourged, tired, and grateful to still be walking on the Camino de Santiago.

Next: Another short, 20 kilometer day, Hornillos del Camino to Castrojeriz