Walking Day 9:
22 kilometers
31,220 steps

I think today is Wednesday, and I think it is September 20, but I have lost track. The days sort of run together, and the date and day are not so important. Sundays are a little more noticeable because more things in the towns are closed. However, when we arrive in most towns, they are very quiet because between 1:30 and 4:30 or 5:00 most businesses are closed for afternoon siesta. Often it is difficult to find a place to eat when we arrive during siesta. So Sunday does not seem too different, except fewer things open again for the evening.

Today was a shorter walking day, and it was a good walking day. The weather cooperated, the sun was out, and the terrain generally rolling with only one long, gradual peak. After getting to Santo Domingo de la Calzada, I spent time socializing and eating lunch with Tom and Julie from Sydney, Australia, doing laundry, and then visiting the museum that is part of the main church here. I shared dinner with Jeff and Tracy from Minnesota (more socializing). It is late and I am tired, so here are the pictures a day late.

Here are Tom and Julie. Julie is Tom’s friend from Sydney, Australia. She has walked the Camino de Santiago before as part of a choir group that sang in some of the churches along the way. She joined us at Nájera to walk with us the rest of the way to Santiago de Compostela. She has good energy, and will help keep Tom and I on track.

Our goal today is to walk to Santo Domingo de la Calzada. Santo Domingo was a devout supporter of the Camino de Santiago in the 11th century and spent most of his life improving the way for pilgrims, organizing the building of bridges, hostels, and clearing the path for pilgrims making their way to Santiago de Compostela. Another reminder of the long and rich history of the Camino; every step we take is on the steps of millions of past pilgrims also on their way to Santiago de Compostela.

Here I am on the cold, brisk, sunny morning about to leave Nájera. The jacket will not last long as walking in the sun warms us quickly.

Very quickly we are out of the small town and making our way through the expansive vineyards of La Rioja. Today is a little shorter walk than the past two days, and we are eager to get to Santo Domingo early to catch a little rest.

The vast farmland just continues and continues. Vineyards are now alternating with what appears to be recently-harvested wheat or some other grain crop. In the distance is a highway, N-120, a major route to Burgos. Today we are not too close to the highway, but tomorrow, more than half of the path is very close to N-120.

Through the fields and up the last long climb towards Cireña. At the top of the climb, there are two Spaniards selling fruit and souvenirs for donation. They were at this very spot last spring, and I bought a small pressed-recycled-glass Camino shell about 1-1/2 cm across. I loved that little glass shell.

There is a bit of a story here, so here goes (I am seldom short of words). When I was about to go to my first month in Chiang Mai, Thailand to do yoga and work from there part-time, a friend named Parminder gave me a little stone. Parminder is a Reiki practitioner, and told me the little stone was to remind me to stay grounded, and remind me to ask the great spirit for permission to be where ever I was and to be grateful for being there. I carried that little stone to Thailand and back, with me every day, and then back to Thailand the next year. In Chiang Mai, as I was going to a hot-stone-oil-massage at the Loi Kroh Massage School I discovered I had lost that little stone. I was somewhat distraught over the loss. As I was walking back from the massage, I discovered a stone shop, went in, and found another little stone I like. I have carried that one and another one I got in Los Angeles with me every day since, across the ocean to Thailand and back a few times, and on the Camino de Santiago last spring.

The glass shell was about the same size as the little stones, and perfect compliment to the stones in my pocket. About four or five days later, I lost that glass shell. So I was hoping to see the same men this Camino and purchase another glass shell. It turned out to be a good day – I saw the same men, and I bought a glass shell which is now in my pocket. (I bought a few to give to friends.)

As we approach the town of Cireña, the fields are all harvested. When I was here in the spring last year, all of these fields were green with spring crops.

We are approaching Cireña, a golf course and town of mostly condominiums built near the end of the housing bubble in 2007. Almost none of the condos were sold, and now the town is a ghost town or something out of the Twilight Zone – a complete town with no people or cars. The golf course cafe now welcomes pilgrims walking past, and we did see a few golfers.

Tom and Julie at the pilgrim sculpture by the golf course cafe. Only another 8 kilometers to Santo Domingo de la Calzada. The day started very cool, and now it is about 23 C (72 Fahrenheit), and we are sweating in the sun. Overall, a very pleasant walking day.

Eight more kilometers (about two hours) through the farmland. The highway, while not far away, is not close enough to hear.

We have arrived at Santo Domingo de la Calzada. And here is the church, dedicated to Santo Domingo, with a museum inside focussing on his life and accomplishments.

Next: Santo Domingo to Belorado, a gradually and consistently uphill day.