Walking Day 7:
28 kilometers
42,400 steps

Today, like yesterday, we crossed three rivers, which again means going down into the river valley, crossing the river (on a bridge), and then going uphill out of the river valley. The up and down hill walking is taxing, and today the the distance was the longest to date on the Camino Frances at 28 kilometers. We have left the autonomous region of Navarra (capital Pamplona) and entered the city of Logroño, the capital of the autonomous region of La Rioja, famous for wine, so we shall see many vineyards.

After leaving Los Arcos, walking through fields, we could see the town of Torres Del Rio in the distant, lit by the sun. We are in our last day in Navarra, and entering the wine country of La Rioja, so we are starting to see vineyards. And the vineyards are fully grown and many lush with grapes about to be picked. When I walked through La Rioja a year and a half ago, the vineyards were just starting to grow for the spring, showing small green shoots of new growth.

When you enter a town on the highway in Spain, there is often a white sign with black letters announcing the town. When you leave the town, there is a sign like this:

It is saying that you are leaving Sansol, but also appears like “No Sansol” or “No More Sansol” or “Sansol no longer exists” or something. I find it a little amusing. Sansol and Torres del Rio are adjacent, so the background is Torres del Rio.

As we walked between Sansol and Torres del Rio, there was this way marker, very typical of this region of Spain.

We are still in Navarra for a couple more hours, and the vineyards are here, expansive and lush. Just before we get to Logroño, we pass from the autonomous region of Navrra into the autonomous region of La Rioja. Logroño is the capitp of La Rioja.

Then it is down into a river valley and back up the other side after crossing the river. I noticed this small grove of olive trees here. This region is also known for olives and olive oil, so it is not a surprise to see the olive trees. We have not been seeing large groves of them. This small grove in the river valley is the first I noticed.

The road going up and out of the river valley is steep, but fortunately not too rocky (I know, it does not look steep in the picture…but it is steep). We are headed to the town of Viana, population 4000, a little more than half of way to Logroño for today.

In Viana, there is this rather large and impressive church for a town of 4000 people. It was open, so we went in to see it and get a sello (stamp) in our credential.

A very beautiful and elaborate church, as are so many.

Getting close to Logroño, we are now in La Rioja, and we are already seeing vineyards. And, as can be seen if you look carefully, the vines are lush with grapes.

Soon we are approaching Logroño. There is a large festival here all week, and the Spanish people do celebrate festivals with much passion (translated to noise), so there will be a lot of activity in the main squares of town tonight.

Approaching the town of Logroño (population 210,000), we walked through one last forest. There will be cars and traffic and such that we have not seen for a few days as we have been walking through small, rural farm towns.

An example of a very large way marker on the path just before reaching Logroño.

And then, in town, these new stylized way markers are in the sidewalk. These were not here a year and a half ago when I was here last.

The final walk through the park into the city and the pilgrim’s information office.

Tom and I went to the pilgrim’s mass at the Iglesia de Santiago el Real. This is a very old church. I noticed some very modern artistic designs in the lectern, the vault for the chalice, and the door-like structures. Made me think of Mondrian, but likely some other artist(s):

Tomorrow will be another very long, 30 kilometer day. It is not expected to rain, and, in fact, may be warming into what we call an Indian summer. The next few days are expected to be in the high 70s (F). I am looking forward to tomorrow, except for the last 3-4 kilometers into Nájera. Even the guidebooks describe that part of the walk as uninspired or even tedious as we walk on a rocky path through a semi-industrial area before getting into the town. We then walk about a kilometer through apartment buildings and finally cross the river and arrive in what is a charming old city. But that is tomorrow. Today was a nice day walking in to the autonomous region of La Rioja and its capital Logroño.

Next: Another 28 kilometer day, unfortunately mostly uphill.