Monday, January 16, 2017
Return Visit to Wat Lok Molee

One of my favorite temples is Wat Lok Molee, I think this is one of the most beautiful temples in Chiang Mai. This temple is right along the moat, on the north end about 500 meters east of the northwest corner of the wall, Hua Line Corner. Wat Lok Molee is often overlooked by tourists even though it is so easily accessible and even close to other more popular temples and historic places.

View of Wat Lok Molee showing the distinctive Lanna-style viharn roofline with the large chedi in the background.

Wat Lok Molee was important in the history of the Menrai Dynasty. King Menrai founded Chiang Rai and then Chiang Mai in the 1200s and he and his descendants ruled Lanna (the country that included most of northern Thailand before merging with Siam to form Thailand in the 1800s) independently until 1558 when the Burmese took over for about 200 years. The temple Wat Lok Molee was founded in the mid-1300s by King Kue Na, the sixth ruler of the Mengrai Dynasty. In the twilight years of the independent Lanna Kingdom, the large Maha Chedi and viharn of Wat Lok Molee were commissioned in 1527. 

Side view of the main viharn as seen today in its restored state.

This is a side view of the main viharn (worship hall). This is a beautiful teak building, restored in the late 1990s with funding from a film project. I have been unable to validate that story, but have heard it from several sources over the past few years.
Here is a photo showing the entrance to Wat Lok Molee after passing under the arch and past the two elephant statues guarding the entrance. Almost all Buddist temple viharn main entrance doors open to the east to great the rising sun. The rising sun is symbolic of birth while the setting sun symbolic of death. Wat Lok Molee is unique in that the viharn main entrance doors open to the south. Of all the temples I have visited in Bangkok and Chiang Mai and around both cities, this is the only temple where the viharn doors open to the south. The only one. The only other exception is Wat Srisupan (also known as the Silver Temple) where the viharn doors and the ubosot (ordination hall) doors open to the north. I have asked many people and have gotten no answer about these exceptions. Most people think it to be a rule that is always followed that the viharn doors open to the east, and cannot explain the exceptions.

A closer view of the main viharn at Wat Lok Molee as I walk closer.

The inside of the main viharn is dark, rich, and beautiful teak. The beauty is almost beyond words. I do not understand why Wat Lok Molee is not more of a tourist attraction.

And the beauty extends to the detailed carved and painted ceiling. If you do not look up, you can miss this beautiful ceiling. I’m pretty sure I missed the ceiling the first time I visited Wat Lok Molee 5 years ago. A friend mentioned the ceiling when I told them I had visited the temple, and I had to return to see the ceiling.

The main Buddha icon/statue at the front of the viharn. Peaceful and elegant.

The Maha Chedi at Wat Lok Molee. This is very tall, and almost 500 years old. This is the only original structure on the temple grounds.

The maha chedi is a complex structure and quite unique in its many different elements.  The whole structure sits on a square three-tiered base.  Above the base is a stylized square lotus base that supports two rings that have been squared off.  And above that is the main chamber of the chedi occupying the central space, above which are three more rings, topped with a bell shape and finally a golden spire.  The spire is the only part of the chedi to be restored to original condition and its golden umbrellas look new compared with the more worn looking brick and stucco of the rest of the stupa.